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In-depth biological analyses on active principles for the development of innovative cosmeceutical and dermatological drugs.

Country of Origin: Italy
Reference Number: TOIT20160823002
Publication Date: 23 August 2016

Summary

An Italian Institute has put in place an innovative bioassay service, in vitro systems based, to characterize natural extracts, single compounds and formulations for the development of cosmetics or dermatological drugs. The Institute offers technical cooperation, service or research cooperation agreements to industrial or research partners willing to validate their products and preparations or to investigate substances for the development of innovative drugs for cosmetic or pharmaceutical use.

Description

The Italian Institute of Research is devoted to the investigation of biological systems by multidisciplinary approaches. The team has acquired proficiency in biological and functional analysis on in vitro cellular models for the characterization of active principles in natural extracts, single compounds or formulations for biomedical application.

The proposed technology consists of a panel of in-depth assays based on up-to-date technology or specific research on selected topics. Assays can investigate different materials, as for instance crude extracts from natural sources, more or less purified extract fractions, single purified compounds, dermatological/cosmetic formulations, and final shelf products.

Analyses are conducted entirely on in vitro systems and include rapid tests (anti-aging, hydration, turnover and regeneration, anti-inflammatory, depigmenting/melanising, and anti-cellulite activity), as well as more in-depth functional pharmacological characterizations.

In vitro skin cellular models include keratinocytes, fibroblasts, melanocytes, adipocytes, endotheliocytes, and immune cells. 

Assays include:

(i) Assessment of cytotoxic activity by cell viability assay to highlight potential hazards or individuate subtoxic doses. (ii) Assessment of total phenolic charge (Folin–Ciocalteu method) and antioxidant power (DPPH assay). (iii) Inhibitory effects on matrix degrading enzymes (collagenase, elastase and hyaluronidase). (iv) Stimulatory effects on the fibroblast production of various types of collagen or other dermal matrix constituents, by Enzyme-Linked Immunosorbent Assay (ELISA) technique. (v) Skin hydration measurements by induction of the expression of different aquaporins in keratinocytes, evaluated by Real-Time Polymerase Chain Reaction (RT-PCR), and by SDS-PolyAcrylamide Gel Electrophoresis (SDS-PAGE), followed by Western immunoblot. (v) Skin turnover and regeneration measurements by establishing cell growth rate at different endpoints (1-10 days) in keratinocytes and fibroblasts. (vi) Induction of keratinocyte differentiation, by RT-PCR assay of specific biomarkers, such as transglutaminase, keratin 1/10, filaggrin, loricrin, involucrin, desmoplakin, and integrin-α6. (vii) Use of scratch wound assay to measure keratinocyte re-epithelialization and fibroblast dermal invasion rates after wound injury and use of inhibitors and multiplex kinase assays to highlight activation of signalling pathways involved in wound healing. (viii) Modulatory activities on inflammatory cytokine production by neutrophils, monocytes and macrophages activated by bacterial lipopolysaccharides or by keratinocytes stimulated with pro-oxidant or irritant agents (e.g. Hydrogen peroxide, Sodium hydroxide), using ELISA or RT-PCR techniques. (ix) Depigmenting/melanizing activity by direct modulation of tyrosinase activity by assay of mushroom tyrosinase. Inhibition of melanisation in -MSH-stimulated melanocytes, or its activation in unstimulated melanocytes, through assay of melanin content. (x) Evaluation of anti-cellulite activity by lipolysis induction in adipocytes through measurement of free fatty acid and glycerol release.

Specific research on mechanisms include measurements of ion currents and intracellular calcium, of receptor-linked cell activities and gene expression, of cell locomotion, proliferation, matrix invasion, etc. and of angiogenesis, using in vitro models of human endothelial cells (e.g. Human dermal microvascular endothelial cell - HuDMEC, Human umbilical vein endothelial cells - HuVEC).

The Institute looks for research, technical or service cooperation agreements, aiming at sharing resources and skills with industry or research institutions interested in in R&D or production to evaluate new preparations and natural compounds for possible use in cosmetic or pharmaceutical industry. 

Furthermore, the team is prepared to provide a service to industries seeking validation of innovative products.

Advantages and Innovations

The proposed service is innovative because of its versatility. It combines innovative research approach and up-to-date routine tests, conducted on validated in vitro models. It consists of a complex of assays entirely adaptable to the need of customers or partners, being useful to characterize putative active principles, from natural or synthetic sources, in terms of biological properties, exploitable both for skin care and for therapeutic applications. 

Furthermore, targeted analysed principles can include substances already in use and marketed on the basis of empiric knowledge, or completely new for the market. 

The researchers’ team is able to offer a complete lab service that can be oriented to the needs of companies or research partners seeking to study and/or develop innovative cosmeceutical or dermatological drugs.

Stage Of Development

Field tested/evaluated

Stage Of Development Comment

The service is currently available to customers or research partners.

Requested partner

The preferred partner should be an industry, SME or research institution with interest in R&D or production of innovative cosmeceuticals, either directly, or through participation to granting programs.

The partner should be interested in evaluating new preparations and natural compounds for possible use in cosmetics or pharmaceutical dermatology or seeking validation of innovative products for the market.

A technical cooperation agreement is also sought in case of a partner that can contribute financial adding resources and know-how to the expertise made available by the team.